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The Secret of Nidderdale
Samaria Gorge
The Great Whernside (with its height of 704m), is the on the head position, dominating in valley of How Stean. Second place takes Maugher (with its height of 575m). Over the underlying millstone grit, by peat bogs, they form together an original fan shaped ‘amphitheatre'.

The water funneling into the beck of How Stean comes from this fan shaped drainage system. At the time of reaching the exposed zone of the limestone, the water stays on the surface and flows over one kilometer, through the narrow gorge, instead of typically just flow into the cave systems. This is absolutely unique phenomenon.

Deep in the valley, there are also very interesting geological features, formed by the faulted limestone. Characteristic of the walls in these places is that they are carved into ledges. Sometimes, they follow the bedding planes of the limestone. At the places, where the rocks are scoured, by the rotary action of pebbles, can be seen rounded stream bed potholes, also called “moulins”. When these potholes link-up, the gorge deepens. This happens from time to time, and is not fundamental. It represents only one of the ways for deepening the gorge.

In the area of the How Stean Gorge, the so called “Brigantes”, were the first known inhabitants. Their ‘country’, called Brigantia, was set up under the “Pax Romana”, after they were decisively defeated by the Romans. The Romans mined up at Greenhow. There is proving for this. In its area were found lead pigs. The area is described in the early Literature. Yet in 1086, it is described as ‘waste’ in the Domesday Book.

In 1069, William the Conqueror wrote his book ‘Harrying of the North’. Mowbrays, who founded the Byland Abbey, held this part of the dale from the 1100’s. It was then described as the Nidderdale Chase. The monks of the Byland Abbey were both given and sold the West side of Upper Nidderdale during the 12th century, by Baron Mowbray. To the east of the Nidd, with the Fountains Abbey, a similar thing happened.

Along the valley were built granges for cattle and sheep rearing. The Abbey’s chapel walls are still standing behind the church of the Ramsgil grange. In 1547, the land of How Stean Gorge was sold to Sir John Yorke. This happened after the Monasteries’ Dissolution of Henry VIII.

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